Textiles Training: Natural Fibres

Cotton:

Natural cellulose from the seed of the cotton plant
Produced as staple fibre
Absorbs up to 65% of weight without dripping
Non-static because it always contains some moisture
Naturally breathable
Soft handle, good drape, dries slowly
Good strength, abrasion resistance and durability
Poor elasticity, so creases easily
Biodegradable and recyclable
Mercerising – for higher strength and lustre
Synthetic resin treatment – for non-iron/crease-resist finish (dries faster but gives reduced strength and absorption)
Stain-resist finishes using Teflon or silicone
Flame-retardant finish – using the Proban process
Typically blended with polyester, polyamide, viscose, modal, Elastane.
Common blend ratios – 50/50 60/40 70/30
Typical cotton fabrics include, calico, corduroy, denim, gingham, drill, terry towelling
Typical end uses include household linen, curtains and towels, shirts, underwear, trousers and jeans, work wear, awnings and sewing thread.
Washable, can be boiled and bleached, dries slowly, best ironed damp, can be dry-cleaned and tumble dried (may shrink)

Linen:

Natural cellulose from the stem of the flax plant
Produced as staple fibres
Strong, durable, long lasting, smooth surface, good drape
Highly absorbent, fast drying, fresh and cool to wear
Non-static because it always contains some moisture
Crisp, firm handle, stiffer and harder than cotton
Shrink proof, washes, irons and dyes well
Low elasticity, so creases very badly
Dirt-repellent, anti-microbial
Biodegradable and recyclable
Synthetic resin treatment – for crease-resist finish
Stain-resist finishes using Teflon or silicone
Typical blends include Linen 50% Cotton 50%, Linen 70% Nylon 25% Elastane 5%, Linen 70% Modal 30%, Linen 50% Cotton 46% Acrylic 4%.
Typically blended with viscose, tencel, polyester and silk
Typical linen fabrics include interlining, Holland (for window blinds)
Typical end uses include, household linen, tablecloths, curtains, and tea towels, shirts, skirts, and suits, ropes, sewing thread and geotextiles
Washable, can be boiled and bleached, quick drying, irons easily when damp, can be dry-cleaned and tumble dried.

Sisal:

This is a natural sustainable fibre, produced from the leaves of the agave cactus. Sisal is high strength, durable, easy to dye, water resistant, has good abrasion resistance, good anti-static properties and is fairly easy to keep clean. It is used for agricultural twines, ropes, hairbrush bristles, baskets and natural floor coverings, which can be blended with wool to make them softer and warmer.

Wool:

Wool from the fleece of a sheep
Produced as staple fibres
Hydrophilic – can absorb of its weight in water without feeling wet
Naturally breathable, rapidly absorbs moisture vapour
Hydrophobic – repels raindrops
Mostly non-static because if always contains some moisture
Very soft or coarse handle, depending on fineness.
Good drape
Medium strength, not durable
Smooth – can be cool
Bulky – warm
Inbuilt UV protection and fire-resistance
At least 40% inbuilt natural stretch and elasticity – good crease resistance, creases drop out
Bio-degradable and recyclable
Machine washable wool – for woven’s and knitwear at 40°C, using the wool cycle and approved detergents
Total Easy Care Wool – for woven’s and knitwear
Silicon treatment – for weatherproofing
Typical wool fabrics include ‘cool wool’, felt, herringbone, flannel, ‘sport wool’, tartan, tweed
Typical end uses include blanket, carpets and upholstery, suits, jumpers, overcoats, sports garments, ties, scarves, hats and socks, industrial felts, agricultural blankets and geotextiles
Washable (with care, unless easy finish), do not bleach, very slow drying, steam iron under a cloth or fabric goes shiny. Can be dry-cleaned. Do not tumble dry, dry in direct sunlight or over heat.

Cashmere:

The fine under hair of the Kel goat from India, Mongolia and Iran, shorn once a year
Produced as staple fibres
One goat produces 200-250 grams per year (just enough for a scarf!)
Two goats produce enough yarn for a 1-ply sweater
It takes 24 goats to produce enough cashmere for a coat
Soft, luxurious handle and appearance
Light, lustrous
Good thermal insulator
Crease-resistant, dirt-repellent
Non-static, fire-resistant
Expensive due to limited supply
Typically blended with wool, silk and polyester
Expensive luxury fabric for coats, and suits
Luxury knitwear
Luxury interior textiles for cars, planes and yachts

Mohair:

Cultivated Silk:

Silk fibres from the cocoon of the Mulberry silkworm
Produced as filaments up to 1km in length and as spun silk
Fine, smooth, lustrous, soft handle, elegant drape
Elastic, fairly crease-resistant, creases drop out
Can absorb up to of its weight in water without feeling wet
Non-static because it always contains some moisture
Strong, durable, light
Cool, but a good insulator, so it also provides warmth
Polyurethane coating – to make silk fabric waterproof
Typical fabrics include chiffon, crepe, damask, satin, twill, voile
End uses include, luxury day and evening wear, underwear, wadding for performance skiwear, racing bike tyre reinforcement, scarves, ties, hats, handbags, umbrellas, sewing and embroidery threads.
Can be affected by perspiration causing it to rot. Wash carefully, do not bleach, iron on back of fabric, steam and water can leave stains, best to dry-clean, do not tumble dry or dry in direct sunlight

Wild Silk:

Textiles Training