Finishes

All fabrics used in products will have been ‘finished’ in some way to make them suitable for their end use. Good finishing can greatly improve the aesthetic and functional properties of fabrics, enhancing their handle, drape and aftercare properties.

Finishing process	Example of how finishing benefits fabrics
Physical finishing processes use heat, pressure or steam and machine processes.	Cotton or nylon is brushed (or ‘raised’) to give a soft, warm handle. Wool fabrics are shrunk to make them compact and to reduce further shrinking.
Chemical finishing processes involve the use of chemicals, which can cause environmental damage.	Viscose fabrics may be given an easy-care treatment. Silk ties can be Teflon coated to make them stain resistant.
Biological finishing processes involve the use of natural enzymes, such as those used in biostoning denim, which causes little environmental damage.	Most denim products in Europe are biostoned. This is less expensive than traditional stonewashing and reduces damage to the fabric.
Dyeing and printing involve the use of chemicals to enhance the aesthetic characteristics of textiles.	Most fabrics are dyed to improve the aesthetic characteristics and to make them fashionable. Printing makes fabrics attractive to the target market.
Decorative and stitch techniques.	Appliqué and embroidery add to the style of the product.

Textile products are also finished as part of a quality assurance process. Product finishing ensures that the product is fault-free, clean and matches specifications. Finishing improves the properties and quality of the product, and can be:

• Aesthetic, like pressing to improve the ease of manufacture. Final pressing improves presentation of the product.
• Decorative, like applying logos, braid or fringing to add to the style of image of the product.
• Functional, like self-finishing seams by over locking to improve the product quality.

Finishing -

 Finishing is done to improve the appearance, properties and quality of a product. It covers many different processes, some mechanical and some chemical.

Mechanical finishing processes -

 Mechanical finishing uses heat, pressure and rollers to improve the appearance of the fabric.

Brushing -

 Brushing cotton or nylon fabrics makes them fluffy and warm, with a soft handle. The fabrics pass through rollers with wire brushes that lift the fibres to form a nap.

Calendaring -

 Calendaring is the industrial equivalent of ironing. It smoothes the fabric and improves its lustre. Engraved calendar rollers are used to emboss relief patterns on the fabric surface.

Heat-setting - 

 Heat-setting is used for thermoplastic fabrics (polyester and nylon). The fabrics are set in permanent shapes or pleats.

Chemical finishing processes -

 Chemical finishing involves the application of chemical solutions or resins to improve the appearance, handle or performance of a fabric.

Bleaching -

 Cotton and synthetic fabrics are bleached before dying. This makes it easier to dye pastel shades.

Mercerising -

 Cotton or linen fabrics are mercerised using the alkali caustic soda. Mercerised fabrics are stronger, dye well and have improved lustre.

Shrink resist -

 Wool can be given a shrink-resist finish using silicone or Teflon. This results in soft, smooth, lustrous yarns and fabrics that are machine washable.

Crease resist -

 Cotton and viscose fabrics are given a crease-resistant finish using resin. This makes them easy care. They dry fast and smooth and need little ironing.

Flame resistant -

 Children's nightwear and cotton/viscose furnishings must by law be given a flame-resistant finish. This often makes the fabric stiffer and weaker.

Smart finishes -

 These are new, high-tech methods for finishing products.

Anti-bacterial finishes -

 Anti-bacterial finishes are applied to the fabric surface to slow down the growth of bacteria. They control odours in sports shoes and reduce infection in medical products.

Coating -  

Coating involves applying a layer of polymer to the surface of the fabric. Teflon coating makes fabrics stain resistant, water repellent and breathable

Biological finishes - 

 Biological finishes use natural enzymes to change a fabric's appearance. Bio-stoning gives a stone-washed finish to denim fabrics.

Thermochromatic finishes - 

 Thermochromatic substances change colour due to a change in temperature.